If the 7.6 billion Earth's inhabitants lived like Australian, the overshoot day would be on March 31st. We would also have done much more irreversible damages and would suffer, inter alia, lack of water, global temperature warming, disappearing of more and more species, sea level rising, climate massive migrations... Those things are already happening but we don't use a big picture enough to really see it. We keep saying « things can still change, we need to act now » but it's been more than 40 years than the first whistleblowers warned us. I don't particularly blame Australians here, we are all responsible of this, and especially the « big leaders ». I am lucky enough to live the life I want and I am pretty sure, 40 years in the future it won't be possible anymore unless being very rich. I do have a car which uses more petrol than average and I drive mostly for my own leasures. So I am probably as much responsible than everybody. I still try to limit my impact, and this car is my home. I pay attention where the food I buy comes from, what I do with rubbish, limit plastic using (bags or packaging) as much as possible, which is not very easy here in Australia. And the thing is, when you live in your car all year round, you don't use any heating electricity or petrol, just fire pits and charge your devices while driving or with solar pannels, which also limits the impact.
In Tasmania, I've found some places where human impact is barely possible to see. Of course, contaminants are carried through the atmosphere and can travel for thousands miles and be found in places they definitely don't belong. But in the Central Highlands, once you've walked more than 10km from the parking lots, you get into a preserved zone. Why ? Mostly because the people heading there care about it. Most of them don't leave anything but footprints. Those guys, still believe we can save what's currently left untouched on this planet. I'm not as optimistic, but I have a lot of respect for them. More ironically, do you imagine if those thousands lakes and stream wouldn't have trout anymore ? They would have bloody carps instead! What a shame. Eventhough trout are not native from this part of the world, they did set up very well and colonised all the waters. They are a sensitive species which would suffer a lot from a rising temperature all over the world. But this is not only about our passion. This is about life. Human hasn't been that close from extinction so far. And it's getting closer every year. Politics use this for communication, they keep saying « we/you have to act ». But in the meantime, we keep allowing glyphosate and most people here still think it's safe. Don't you remember DDT back in the 60s ? Rachel Carson, with her book « Silent Spring » was right. She was one of the first whistleblowers and absolutely nothing changed, exept we traded DDT with another chemical, which also give cancers. It was an harsh introduction, but it was needed to be said. Let's come back 8 months ago, when I arrived on the appleisle.
As soon as the ferry landed, I had only one thing in mind : reach the Plateau. I just did one step, in Launceston at « Essential Flyfisher » which is, from my experience the best flyshop on the island. Had a quick chat with the locals, get some advices, flies and went back on the road. I wasn't ready for a big trip so far, but the simple fact to be on the Plateau and discover this really special environment was what I had been looking for. You know this feeling, being completly happy and find exactly what you were looking for ? I was charmed. It didn't take me too long before I bring in the net the first Tasman trout. It was a decent subject between 1 and 2 lbs. I had one of those dumb smile you must all know about. Thanks to the flyshop, I've been put in touch with a local angler and also guide, James. We've been chatting a bit and decided to plan an adventure out there. James is as keen and crazy with fishing as I am.
He showed me the local flies models and we took some time for an evening rise near his house. How good was it to cross the paddocks and cast beatles to hungry trouts. But the day after, serious things would start. We packed up our backpacks with swags, sleeping bags, food and the strict minimun for 3 days hike. I was so excited that I could barely sleep. The first couple of kilometres were very fast because they was not water to fish but as soon as we reached the first interesting lake, my mind was focus on only ine thing : catch one of those giant. It took only a few cast for James. I was surprised how easy it was for him. After just 2 hours, his entire trip was worth it. 3 fish, a total of 13lbs including a 7.5lbs dinosaur/horse, call it as you like. I had couple of chances on a few fishes but didn't have any success.
This is a totally different way of fishing than the one I do. A fast pasted way of fishing. I mostly fish in rivers, and the main difference is the time. In those lakes, you can not waste a second when you spot a fish. While in rivers, when you are sight fishing, you can take the time to observe the fish, see how he feeds, what's the best angle to present your fly... This major difference will take me a lot of time to face and adapt myself. We fished and walked until the dark. Had a quick dinner and it took us a few second to fall asleep, under a perfectly clear sky, full of stars. We did not need any alarm to wake up the next morning, few hours later then, just before the dawn. From our campsite, we had imediate access to 2 lakes, which are considered as trophy lakes. And James proved it with a lovely 6lbs just before breakfast. Using the sun position is also an important detail. Still haven't got hooked any fish though, but I am learning, and that is part of the important things. When you are in a stunning place, almost untouched, without any human life form for miles, catching fish is a bonus. In the afternoon of this second day, we separated and I felt less presure when I was in front of a fish. I managed to land an average fish for the Plateau, but it was such a prize.
James and I joined for the eventual evening rise and we both caught a fish within a 3 minutes gap. Amazing. They were 2 big trouts eating black spinners on the same corner. Once James caught the first, the second one started to rise. Epic, magic, a memory I might keep for a while. That's something I love with fishing. It is the only time I feel that way, never happens when I'm back to the « ordinary life ». I guess I am definitely not the only one, but it had to be said, once again. I felt asleep even faster that night. The last day of the trip has been quite until lunchtime. We had to carry our backpacks all day and were quite exhausted. A quick nap allowed us to rest after a nonproductive morning looking for edges cruisers. In the beggening of the afternoon, a massive hatch took place. It was black spinners and they were everywhere. Fishes started to rise but they were constantly moving. In these conditions in the Western Lakes, you need to anticipate fish movement, where is he heading ? How often does he rise ? They were quite far from the bank but it was not a problem for James who caught 3 of them. It showed me how much I still have to learn, which is a good thing after all.
Back to the car with the sunset, litterally exhausted, we headed back to James place in Launceston. Both quiet and sad to leave this majestic place. It was time for me to get back to work, but fishing obsessed me. I found a job in a strawberry farm which was litteraly slavery. I'm not being picky and usually am pretty good at piece rate works. But in this farm, the profits were more important than anything else in the company and the waste of fruits was outrageous. I lasted 2 days, I couldn't be part of this shame longer. The fruits standards they wanted were so rude. It was either too red or not enough, eventhough I would have definitely eat them. But the big supermarkets don't see things that way, it's also our faults, the customers, who don't buy the not very good looking fruits. It results in a massive amount of fruit just thrown away. They could at least make jam or give it to poor people, but it would decrease their profits. Sad experience. I managed to find something else, cherry picking, which was way better. Pay rate was more than reasonnable and the management was great. I also met the girl I'm sharing the following of my trip with in this place, makes it a bit special.
Anne is a graduated architect, also French and very keen to discover my, our, fishing world. She is amazing and never stepped back when we had to bush-bash to reach a tiny little lake up on the Plateau. After a month of picking, our bank accounts were feeling better, we could go for some holidays on the island and « explore the possibilities ». We had a great time camping by the famous rivers and the coast. But I could not wait any longer to be back in the Western Lakes. We still had a week and half before our next job would start and a weather window was open. Here I was again. It felt so good to be back on the « tracks » and be far from the civilization. This was Anne's first trip and I choose to go somewhere new. About a dozen of lakes in the target area. We started in the afternoon of a misty day. Windy, as always, and after the first couple hours of walk, we decided to set up the first camp. It was not a very interesting area yet, because still reachable for the daytripper. Understand popular and the trout here might have been caught few times already this season. After a cold night, I had a look in the little lagoon next to the tent. I spotted an active trout eating with the first daylights but she has been smarter than me. We did not have so much time to waste and a long walk was waiting for us. On the way, we passed a couple of lakes but the cloudy sky did not let so much light through and I did not see any fish. We arrived at our basecamp around midday, which allowed me plenty of time to explore around. Ania decided to chill in the grass for the afternoon, reading and drawing. Fair enough when you have the choice with a 15km walk into thick bush. Furthermore, it has not been productive at all. I came back with the night and not a single fin spotted.
My confidence was gone and I had to look for mental ressources far deep in my mind. When we woke up, the fog was there, and the showers obliged us to take the breakfast in the tent. Should we head back to the car ? Most of our gears were wet, and the forecast prediction was wrong, we should have had sun since the last day. After mature reflexion and two hours wait, we decided to pack up. That was not ideal conditions to introduce Ania into this world. Despite beeing in summer, overnight temperatures dropped close to 0, which is hard when you're not use to it. We were on the way back to the car for 2 hours when something unexpected happened.
No, I did not spot a 10lbs trout who took my dryfly straight after casting, the sun just came out from the clouds and slowly, they were all gone to leave us a perfectly clear, blue sky. And now, we were back to the start. The commun agreement said we finally stay. I ran to the previous campspot to set it up again and be able to use this nice window. This time, Ania is joining me for the adventure. With the sun, the wind doesn't matter anymore. I can see through the water. And we've been able to observe few trouts, I could finally show those magical creatures to Ania and explain her how it works. Alimentation circuits, cruising along the banks to find food, what kind of food... All the basics our dad or granddad used to teach us. She seemed to like the game and revealed herself as a very good fishing partner to spot the trout and indicate which direction they were swimming. But no luck this day, all the fish refused my flies. Perhaps a lack of accuracy in the cast. I started to become a bit nervous with my troubles to land fish. We had still one last day for this trip and it's been the same senario over and over again. Fish spotted in the cristal clear water, I manage to position myself in a descreat spot, hidden by a big rock, wait for the right moment to cast my fly. The trout seems interested, comes for it, open her large -oven size- mouth and 1imch from it, makes a U turn and get back on her way. So frustrating. Makes me wandering what is wrong with me. I used a 4lbs tippet and changed flies quite often from beatle to little emerger with pretty much everything in between. Best solution is keep practicing and don't give up. That's the plan.
The next couple of days after the trip have been rainy. The time went fast and we would have to get back to work pretty soon. A last but not least, nice window was open just before apple picking would start. Three days, two nights and roughly 70 km to walk on the menu. Heaps of lake, some I've already fished with James in December, some new ones. On the way to the starting point, Creedence Clearwater Revival on max volume, feet outside of the window. I love life. First day has been mostly walking and camp set up, didn't have a chance to cast. All the little streams were flooding because of the rain and the water in the lakes was not as clear as before. I have seen two big fish in a very tiny stretch of running water between two lakes. It was end of February and they seemed to already prepare spawn. Curious and interesting behaviour. I woke up with first light the next morning and went for a lake tour before breakkie while Ania was still in bed. Did not spot any fish despite it had been a crack with James 2 month before. Disapointed, I needed a large cup of warm black coffee. As would say my Master John Gierach, a good coffee is a must when you're gone fishing. The smell of it, when you're out in the middle of nowhere, is always very special. Helped a lot to think about the day tour. Once again, Ania will skip her turn and stay at the camp. She really loves drawing and painting, specially those amazing landscape. Which also allows me to be 100% focus on my targets. I walked the most part of the day without seing a single fish. I've been around 6 lakes and despite very good conditions, I did not see anything swimming around. I decided to head to a trophy lake I didn't fish the last time with James. It was my last call, already 3:30pm and a fair way to walk to reach the camp. This lake is above most of the others around and I the hydromorphology is quite different. Very deep, the edges are steep and it's hard to walk along the banks.
When I reached the spillway, understand the point where the lakes flows into a small tributary for the lake underneath, I saw something which looked like an adipose fin. A very big one. I came closer to make sure it was not a delusion. It wasn't. I could not see the head but the tail of the fish was there, moving with the current and so massive. I could feel the confusion and stress growing up in my body. My legs were shaking, cotton like. I hadn't feel that way for a while. First idea was to let fall a hopper from the grassy edge, roughly 50cm above of her head. Done it twice without any movement from the fish. So I tried something smaller and same result. It was time for a nymph. We all know for fact that trout feed underwater 80% of their time. So I casted a weightless size 18 copper pheasant tail with a small orange tag on the head. On the second drift, I could see something in the fish's lower part. This feeling that makes you take contact, you're not really sure but just in case... And that was a good shot. She was hooked. The following event were completely unreal, they looked like out of fiction. Instead of running out of the little stream part to the deep water of the lake, the fish went downstream. Stuck herself between few rocks and jumped out of the water. Her entiere body was in the air, it parelized me. I litteraly couldn't move. She landed on the grass, and within a second , swat her tail and was back in the water. A lucid person would have grab the opportunity, jump close to the fish and put it in the net. But I just couldn't move. For a second I was unable to use any of my members. Just had my eyes to watch the magic. Once back in her element, she started to rush and I was on the backing within 5 secondes. I could just watch my reel getting empty. I considered jumping in the water and swim to be able to follow her. Luckily, I did not have to do that, she just stopped for a while. It allowed me to retrieve and refill my backing. She did not give up and kept fighting.
My rod was bent and seconds felt like hours. The story couldn't end like in the fairy tails and the unwanted moment happened. This empty filling at the end of line. The hook pulled out. Frustration and sadness replaced the nervosity and excitation. I probably lost a fish of a lifetime, so I set in the grass, bummed a cigarette, contemplating the scenery around.
During the long way back to the camp, I had the film of the previous epic scene playing in my head. I guess you can imagine, how tough it has been to answer to the « So, how has it been ? Any luck ? » from a totaly novice person who doesn't realise at all how affected I could be.
It was our last night in the Central Plateau Conservation area for a while and I felt weird to say goodbye to this magic place with 2 non productive trips (angling side). Anyway we had to leave early in the morning and the way back I haven't see any fish. Cloudy and windy day on the Plateau. We had to go back to work, with in mind, the memories of this iconic place.
Almost a year passed since those events and I am now more ready than ever to come back. With the terrific company of our editor in chief. The countdown started and I am really looking forward to feel this freedom again. Eventhough I have been lucky to go all around the australian mainland and loved it, I haven't find any place like the Central Highland in Tasmania.
The trout season closed few weeks ago in France and opened in this part of the World so I wish everybody a good season, full of great memories. For people back home, good luckto hold on until March. You might have news from the Plateau early 2019.
